Laser Settings for Acrylic: Cutting & Engraving Guide

Acrylic is one of the most popular materials for laser cutting and engraving — it produces stunning results when dialed in correctly. However, acrylic introduces variables that other materials don’t: clear vs colored, cast vs extruded, and major differences between CO2 and diode lasers. This guide provides tested starting settings and practical tips so you can get clean cuts and crisp engravings on your first attempt.

MaterialLaser BeamKerf WidthHAZHAZV-Taper
Cross-section of a laser cut in acrylic showing kerf width, heat affected zone (HAZ), and V-taper

Important: CO2 vs Diode Lasers for Acrylic

Diode lasers cannot cut clear acrylic.

The 445 nm wavelength of diode lasers passes straight through transparent acrylic without being absorbed. You must use a CO2 laser (10.6 μm wavelength) for clear acrylic. Colored and dark acrylic absorbs the diode wavelength and can be cut successfully.

CO2 Lasers

  • Excellent for both cutting and engraving all acrylic types
  • 10.6 μm wavelength is well absorbed by acrylic
  • Produces flame-polished edges on cast acrylic
  • The standard choice for professional acrylic work

Diode Lasers

  • Can cut colored/dark acrylic only
  • Cannot cut clear or light-colored acrylic
  • 445 nm wavelength passes through transparent material
  • Good option if you only work with colored acrylic

Diode Laser Settings for Acrylic

Colored acrylic only. These settings are starting points for 3 mm colored/dark acrylic.

MachineMaterialThicknessSpeed (mm/s)PowerPassesOperation
xTool S1 20WAcrylic (colored)3 mm20090%2Cut
xTool D1 Pro 20WAcrylic (colored)3 mm20085%2Cut
xTool D1 Pro 10WAcrylic (colored)3 mm150100%3Cut
xTool S1 40WAcrylic (colored)3 mm30075%1Cut
Sculpfun S30 Pro Max 20WAcrylic (colored)3 mm18095%2Cut
Sculpfun SF-A9 40WAcrylic (colored)3 mm30070%1Cut
Atomstack X20 Pro 20WAcrylic (colored)3 mm20090%2Cut
Creality Falcon 2 22WAcrylic (colored)3 mm20090%2Cut
LONGER Ray5 20WAcrylic (colored)3 mm19090%2Cut
Ortur Laser Master 3 10WAcrylic (colored)3 mm150100%3Cut
TwoTrees TS2 10WAcrylic (colored)3 mm150100%3Cut

CO2 Laser Settings for Acrylic

CO2 lasers work with all acrylic types including clear, colored, and fluorescent.

MachineMaterialThicknessSpeed (mm/s)PowerPassesOperation
OMTech 40W CO2Acrylic (colored)3 mm1560%1Cut
OMTech 40W CO2Acrylic (clear)3 mm1555%1Cut
OMTech 50W CO2Acrylic (colored)3 mm1850%1Cut
OMTech 50W CO2Acrylic (clear)3 mm1845%1Cut

Tips for Laser Cutting Acrylic

  • 1Remove the protective film before cutting, or leave it only on the back side. Film on top can cause charring and residue.
  • 2Use air assist at LOW pressure. High-pressure air can cool the acrylic too quickly, causing cracking or rough edges.
  • 3CO2 lasers produce flame-polished edges on cast acrylic — one of the best features of laser-cut acrylic.
  • 4For thick acrylic (6 mm+), multiple slow passes at moderate power will outperform a single aggressive pass.
  • 5Keep your work area well ventilated. Acrylic fumes contain MMA (methyl methacrylate) and should not be inhaled.

Tips for Laser Engraving Acrylic

  • 1Engrave from the back for a clean, frosted look. Mirror/reverse your design before sending it to the laser.
  • 2Apply masking tape on the engraving surface to prevent smoke residue from staining the acrylic.
  • 3Use low power and high speed for fine detail. Acrylic engraves cleanly and doesn’t need heavy passes.
  • 4Paint-fill your engravings for contrast. Apply acrylic paint over the engraved area, then wipe the surface clean for a professional look.

Cast vs Extruded Acrylic

Not all acrylic is created equal. The manufacturing process matters significantly for laser results.

PropertyCast AcrylicExtruded Acrylic
PriceMore expensiveCheaper
Edge qualityFlame-polished, crystal clearCan bubble or appear gummy
Thickness consistencyVery consistentCan vary across the sheet
Laser cuttingExcellent resultsAcceptable, edges less clean
Laser engravingCrisp white frostCan look inconsistent
Best forSignage, awards, display piecesPrototyping, budget projects

Can a Diode Laser Cut Clear Acrylic?

Short answer: No.

Clear acrylic is transparent to the 445 nm wavelength used by diode lasers. The beam passes through the material without transferring enough energy to cut. You need a CO2 laser operating at 10.6 μm, which acrylic absorbs readily.

Why this happens: Diode lasers emit visible blue/violet light. Clear acrylic is designed to transmit visible light, so the beam has nothing to interact with. CO2 lasers emit far-infrared light at a wavelength that acrylic absorbs almost completely.

The painting workaround: Some users try painting clear acrylic black to absorb the diode wavelength. While this can technically start a cut, the results are poor — uneven edges, charring, and inconsistent depth. It is not a practical solution for production work.

Colored acrylic works fine: If your acrylic is dark, opaque, or heavily pigmented, a diode laser can cut it successfully. Black, dark blue, red, and other saturated colors absorb the 445 nm wavelength well.

Do NOT laser these materials — toxic fumes

  • ×PVC / vinyl — releases chlorine gas (hydrochloric acid)
  • ×Chrome-tanned leather — releases hexavalent chromium (carcinogen)
  • ×Polycarbonate (Lexan) — produces bisphenol A fumes and discolors badly
  • ×ABS plastic — emits hydrogen cyanide when laser cut

Always verify your material before cutting. When in doubt, check the MSDS sheet or ask your supplier.

Some plastics release toxic fumes when laser cut. Always verify your material type before processing.

Troubleshooting

White residue on edges

Cause: Speed too slow or power too high, causing excess heat buildup.

Fix: Increase speed slightly or reduce power by 5–10%. Ensure air assist is running.

Cracking during or after cutting

Cause: Thermal stress from too much heat concentrated in one area.

Fix: Use lower power with multiple passes. Ensure acrylic is flat and unclamped at edges.

Not cutting through

Cause: Insufficient power, incorrect focus distance, or dirty lens.

Fix: Check and clean your lens, verify focus height, add another pass or increase power.

Melted or gummy edges

Cause: Likely extruded acrylic, or too much heat with too little airflow.

Fix: Switch to cast acrylic for better edge results. Reduce power and increase air assist slightly.

What the Research Says

Key findings from peer-reviewed studies on laser cutting PMMA / acrylic.

Kerf Width & Surface Roughness

A Taguchi L18 study on CO2-cut PMMA measured minimum kerf width of 0.3167 mm (at 100W, 20 mm/s, 0.5 bar gas pressure) with surface roughness Ra 0.5–3.0 μm and heat-affected zone depth of 0.12–0.37 mm. Kerf taper was reduced from 1.92° to just 0.02° under optimised conditions.

Khoshaim et al., J. Materials Research & Technology, 2021

Optimal Speed–Power Trade-off

Four metaheuristic algorithms (GA, PSO, WOA, ALO) converged on cutting speeds of 4–7 mm/s at ≤60W with focal plane at centre position for best edge quality. Laser speed is the single most influential parameter for both surface roughness and dimensional accuracy.

Arabian J. Science & Engineering, 2024

RSM-Optimised CO2 Parameters

Response Surface Methodology identified optimal CO2 settings for 4 mm PMMA as 90W / 10 mm/min / 5 mm nozzle distance. PMMA produced less HAZ than polycarbonate and polypropylene, resulting in higher cut quality among common thermoplastics.

Int. J. Interactive Design & Manufacturing, 2025

Key Relationships

Across studies, kerf width widens with higher power and stand-off distance, and narrows with faster cutting speed. The practical rule: low power + high speed = best surface quality and smallest HAZ. Gas pressure has minimal effect on kerf width compared to speed and power.

Synthesised from Khoshaim 2021, AJSE 2024, IJIDeM 2025

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I laser cut clear acrylic with a diode laser?
No. Diode lasers operate at around 445 nm (visible blue light), which passes straight through clear acrylic without being absorbed. You need a CO2 laser with a 10.6 μm wavelength to cut clear acrylic. Colored or dark acrylic absorbs the diode wavelength and can be cut successfully.
What speed and power should I use for 3 mm acrylic?
It depends on your laser type and wattage. For a 20 W diode laser cutting colored acrylic, start around 200 mm/s at 90% power with 2 passes. For a 40–50 W CO2 laser, try 15–18 mm/s at 50–60% power in a single pass. Always test on scrap first.
Why does my acrylic crack when laser cutting?
Cracking is usually caused by thermal stress. Reduce your power and slow down your speed so the heat distributes more evenly. Using multiple lighter passes instead of one aggressive pass helps. Also ensure your acrylic is flat and not under tension from clamps.
Cast vs extruded acrylic for laser cutting?
Cast acrylic is the preferred choice. It produces clean, flame-polished edges and handles heat better. Extruded acrylic is cheaper but tends to produce gummy or bubbly edges. If edge quality matters, spend the extra on cast acrylic.
Do I need air assist for cutting acrylic?
Yes, air assist is recommended. It removes debris from the cut path and reduces flaming. However, use LOW pressure air assist — high pressure can cool the acrylic too fast and cause cracking or rough edges.
How do I get flame-polished edges on acrylic?
Flame-polished edges happen naturally when cutting cast acrylic with a CO2 laser at the right settings. The key factors are: use cast (not extruded) acrylic, dial in the correct speed/power balance, and use gentle air assist. The laser essentially melts the edge smooth.

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